Step by Step Soil Prep Guide

1. Clear the site of all building materials (wood, cement, bricks, etc...) as well as any buried stumps, rocks, stones or other debris that are any larger than 2 inches in diameter.

2. Rough grade the entire area to eliminate any drainage problems on the property.  This would include sloping the grade away from building foundations, eliminating or reducing severe slopes and filling low-lying areas. A tractor-mounted blade and/or box are most often used for rough grading, but if the area is small, it can be done with hand tools.  The rough grading, will probably uncover more debris that should be removed.

3. Initial tilling to a depth of at least 2 inches, should be completed prior to adding any topsoil or soil amendments.  This will control most annual weeds, alleviate subsoil compaction, permit a bonding of the topsoil to the subsoil and improve root penetration as well as air exchange and water movement.

4. Add topsoil to achieve a total topsoil depth of 4-6 inches, after firming.  The topsoil should be a loamy sand, sandy loam, clay loam or other soil suitable for the area.

5. Test soil for pH and nutrients to determine if any pH correcting materials or nutrients are required.  Acidic soils a pH of less than 6 can be improved with the addition of lime.  The type (or source) and amount applied will be determined by the level of acidity and should be based on the recommendations of a professional.  Alkaline soils a pH of 8 and higher can be improved with sulphur.  As with acidic soil correcting materials, the type and amount of materials needed will be determined by the level of acidity and should be based on the recommendations of a professional.

6. Apply fertilizer to correct any deficiencies following the product's recommended rate.  To avoid root injury to new turfgrass, the fertilizer should be raked into the top 3-4 inches.

7. Finish grade the entire site, maintaining the rough grading contours and slopes, with a tractor-mounted box blade for large areas or a heavy-duty rake for smaller sites.

8. Roll the area with a lawn roller one-third full of water to firm and settle surface.  Low spots should be filled to match the surrounding grade surface.  If time permits, allow area to settle further with rainfall or by applying irrigation.

With this degree of careful preparation your lawn will be beautiful and require less maintenance.

How to Determine the Size of Your Lawn

To calculate your actual total lawn area follow the steps noted below and do a sketch with the length, width and any unusual features noted.

Step 1

Determine total square feet of your property

Step 2

Determine total square feet of your non-lawn areas not covered by grass (i.e. house, flower garden, driveway, patio, etc...)

Step 3

From the total square feet subtract the total "non-lawn" area to determine the area that requires turfgrass/sod.

Be sure to measure carefully,  Double check your measurements.  Always round up or add about 5%-10% extra to make sure you have enough sod for angles and cuts.  Better to have a few extra square feet than to run out before you finish the installation.

Post Installation Care of Turfgrass/Sod

Fertilizer

The type and quality of fertilizer required for your lawn will depend on your grass variety.  Cool and warm season grasses vary as do their nutrient requirements.

Mowing

The turfgrass can be mowed when it is rooted.  Be sure to remove no more than 1/3 of the grass blade.  The actual height of the cut varies depending on whether the grass is a cool or warm season and the type of grass.

Keep your mower blades sharp.  Dull blades tear the grass blade instead of cutting it cleanly.  These small rips in the turfgrass/sod tissue can caused the grass to lose more water, increase irrigation needs, create stress and make the lawn more vulnerable to diseases.

Grass Clippings

Contrary to popular belief, they do not cause thatch. (Thatch usually occurs only when turf/sod is excessively fertilized and soil is compacted, cool and moist.)  If you follow the 1/3 cutting rule grass clippings won't smother the grass plants.  They will dry out and work their way down to the soil surface.  These clippings return nutrients to the soil, resulting in less fertilizer use.  They also cool the soil and help it retain water.

Thatch

Thatch is a layer of dead and decomposing plant tissue that forms above the soil.  A thin 1/2 inch layer is beneficial to a lawn.  It protects plant crowns and reduces compaction.  But if the layer gets too thick, water, air and fertilizer can't get through to the soil and grass roots.  Runoff increases and dry spots appear.  Or when it's wet, the thatch can remain saturated and suffocate roots.  Thatch usually occurs on turf/sod that has been heavily fertilized, and is most common on poorly drained, compacted and acidic soils.

Some species of lawn grasses are more prone to thatch problems than others.  Severe thatch problems left unattended may eventually require the use of a dethatching machine.  To prevent or minimize thatch problems, core aeration is an option depending on your situation.

Aeration

Core aerators punch small holes in the lawn allowing air and moisture to penetrate through the holes.  It is most effective in late summer when temperatures are starting to fall and the soil is only slightly moist.

After aeration, leave the soil cores on the surface to dry.  Then rake them to distribute the soil down through the grass to mix with and dilute the thatch.  The mixing action of core aeration is similar to that provided by earthworms.  Core aeration can also help increase water infiltration on compacted soils.

HOME | ABOUT US | PRICING | WHY SOD? | SITE PREP | GALLERY | CONTACT US